In our "Meet the Master" series, Dirk Chen, Director of Wine at Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group Hong Kong, shares valuable insights into his journey and expertise in the wine world. As a judge for the China Wine Competition he sheds light on his approach to evaluating wines, focusing on the three key components of quality, value, and packaging. He highlights the importance of objective tasting, looking beyond labels and personal preferences to assess harmony, balance, and depth in a wine.

The China Wine Competition is key in identifying wines that excel in these areas for China’s on-trade market. Through this series, we offer winemakers and brands valuable insights into what judges are looking for, helping them position their wines to resonate with today’s consumers and increase their chances of success in the competition.

Q: Can you tell us a bit about your journey in the wine world? What inspired you to pursue a career in wine?

Dirk: I didn’t drink alcohol until my 20th birthday. My passion for wine came much later, during my time as a management trainee at The Peninsula Hong Kong. After taking WSET courses, a memorable tasting of a bottle of La Rioja Alta 904 Rioja Gran Reserva sparked my love for wine.Interestingly, before I even completed my Level 3 courses, I was appointed Assistant Sommelier at the Felix restaurant at The Peninsula Hong Kong, where I was responsible for managing the wine program. It was quite challenging for a 23-year-old to run a wine program but with support from senior members of the hotel, I quickly discovered my true passion.

Q: Are there particular wine styles, varietals, or regions that you are passionate about?

Dirk: I am a huge fan of Burgundy. So Pinot and Chardonnay are my go to varietals. In general, I like wines from cool climates with elegance and finesse.

Q: What key factors do you consider when selecting a fine wine for your portfolio?

Dirk: The most important thing is if it tastes well, regardless of the price or the fame. Then I would think of the terroir, winemaking and the winery.

Image Source: Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group

Q: What role do trends such as sustainability, organic wine production, and natural wines play in your buying decisions?

Dirk: I place a high value on sustainability, especially as our hotel group and restaurant are pioneers in this area. Organic and biodynamic winemaking are practices I consistently seek out, as I believe they not only align with sustainable principles but also contribute to better wine quality.

When it comes to natural wine, I have mixed feelings. While I’ve had some great experiences, I’ve also encountered many disappointing ones. For me, what matters most is the taste of the wine and its ability to express the terroir. Simply being “natural” doesn’t necessarily result in a great wine; in many cases, it can lead to a wine that’s more funky than enjoyable.

Q: How do you approach tasting a wine and evaluating its quality? Are there any particular aspects that tend to stand out to you?

Dirk: I believe it’s important not to be a label drinker or let personal preferences influence your judgment. Some wines can be exceptional, yet they may not align with your usual style. As professionals, we must strive to assess wines as objectively as possible.

A great bottle, in my opinion, is the result of a harmonious combination of flavors, intensity, balance, length, and many other factors. It’s difficult to pinpoint just one element that stands out to me.

Image Title: China Wine Competition Judging

Q: What current trends in the global wine industry do you find most exciting or promising?

Dirk: With the impact of global warming, many winemakers are increasingly turning to cooler vineyard sites. As I mentioned earlier, I have a deep love for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, particularly from cooler climates. It’s exciting to see so many producers discovering excellent sites to craft these wines. For example, Francisco Baettig is producing outstanding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Traiguén, located in the Malleco Valley of Chile.

Q: What advice would you give to someone starting out in the wine industry as a sommelier?

Dirk: Make sure it is something that you love. You can’t be a good Sommelier without a passion for wine. If you love what you do, the job is half done.

Dirk Chen’s journey through the world of wine highlights the importance of passion, education, and an open mind. His dedication to sustainability and his excitement for the rise of cooler climate wines underscore his progressive outlook on the evolving wine industry.

For aspiring sommeliers, Dirk’s message is clear —passion is essential. It’s not just about the technical knowledge, but about genuinely loving the craft. With his wealth of experience and knowledge, Dirk provides invaluable insights for winemakers, buyers, and wine lovers looking to connect with today’s evolving wine landscape. 

As we look ahead, the 2025 China Wine Competition promises to showcase some of the finest wines that embody these qualities. Stay tuned for more insights from our "Meet the Masters" series, where top wine experts share their knowledge and expertise. 

Header Image: Dirk Chen, Judge at China Wine Competition

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